sexta-feira, 18 de abril de 2008

Roberto Cavalli. Summer 2008/2009

Roberto Cavalli, Italy’s ‘king of bling”, swung his style barometer from strident and sexy to soft and subtle at Milan Fashion Week.

Roberto Cavalli: a sweet simplicity
In line with the current mood for fantasy and romanticism that is emerging at these designer previews for next spring/summer, Cavalli turned down the volume on his formally over-the-top fashion formula.
“I used to design for a woman who wanted to flaunt,” he said. “Now, it’s time for a new woman who is more pure, simple and innocent.”
This proclamation, of course, did not stop the flamboyant Florentine from recreating the gilded Hall of Mirrors at Versailles as a video backdrop to his show.
But there was a sweet simplicity in the white broderie anglaise and floral chiffon petticoat dresses, even if some were unbuttoned as if in a boudoir. Fringed suede skirts, vests and trousers were mixed with Marie Antoinette-inspired peasant girl looks in pastels and patchwork florals.
Pale, sequined shifts, generally devoid of jewellery, offered a delicate suggestion of razzle-dazzle. But there was not an animal print to be seen, no splits to the thigh and no plunging cleavage.
Instead, for evening, Cavalli offered long, fluid dresses in watercolour prints of lilies, orchids and peonies, softened with a flounce at the hem.
At Gucci, the designer Frida Giannini, now in her fifth season, went back to the fifties with a collection that took inspiration from American artists such as Jackson Pollock and Mark Rothko and based her colour palette on the bubble-gum colours of rock ‘n’ roll.
Candy pink and sunflower yellow were the accents on graphic black and white shirts, decorated with big bows on the shoulder or a scattering of sequined flowers.
Mini-skirts, belled and folded like origami, were cinched with thick PVC and leather belts.
Ultra-short dresses in the same colours featured toga-like drapes in front, which concealed slouchy pockets, or a swinging panel from neck to knee at the back.
Black and white plaid shirts and low-slung, drainpipe jeans, cropped above the ankle and often teamed with black PVC and crocodile biker jackets, were pure Buddy Holly-meets-The Fonz, albeit the six-inch heeled bubble-gum pink and black patent lace-ups lifted the look into 2008.
Ballgowns retained the rock’n’roll edge, featuring huge skirts and tiny, folded bodices tethered with a belt-like strap and buckle.
Earlier, Giorgio Armani opened his younger, Emporio show, with a screening of the new video for his latest perfume, Diamonds, which features the singer Beyoncé recreating the Marilyn Monroe classic, “Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend” in a crystal-studded Armani slip-dress.

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